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editor’s note
Ali Cribb and Michael Voumard who have been The Rockford Stonewall Table and Krondorf Garden chefs and gardeners for the past nine years have decided to return to Ali’s homeland, New Zealand. Anyone who loves superlative food and wine and values proximity of garden to table will lament the loss of these unique individuals who have, in the last nine years cooked us some amazing meals. We cannot let them leave without a proper tribute and a sincere thanks for their inspirational cooking. To read the full article
click here
Rockford Wines are currently searching for the right person/s to take their places; very big shoes to fill, and in the mean time the lunches are being cooked by a series of guest chefs who love the concept of the Rockford Stonewall Table but are not in the position to consider taking the position on a permanent basis.
Michael Voumard is currently supervising the transition to new gardeners. For anyone who has not been lucky enough to dine at the Rockford Stonewall Table take a look we have left their review on line as a tribute to the magic they have created. It has to be said that at a time when dining in Adelaide is very much in the doldrums their decision to return to New Zealand is a belly blow for Adelaide dining.
Magical, colourful, extraordinary this is the sum of the exceptional cooking of Ali Cribb and Michael Voumard!
We were of course very disappointed that our international restaurant reviewer Kaaren Palmer after being the South Australian amateur finalist in the bi–annual Champagne awards did not win the national award. However, we are realistic enough to know that first time round was a very big ask and on the bright side it gives us all the opportunity to taste and catalogue a whole lot more great Champagne in the next two years, all, of course, in the interest of Kaaren winning the national next time.
We had hoped to announce the name of the newly appointed executive chef at Magill Estate Restaurant, signed and sealed,and unfortunately so are our lips until it is officially announced (probably tomorrow). It is completely killing to be entrusted with a name and honour that trust but that is why Galaxy Guides often scoops commercial newspapers, we can keep secrets. Magill Estate Restaurant remains one of Adelaide’s most stylish contemporary restaurant venues and who among us doesn't long to see the restaurant reinvigorated, wait staff knocked into serious shape and the restaurant put back on the map. After all, where else in Adelaide can you get Grange by the glass and have the opportunity to taste classic Australian vintages at almost cellar door prices. Mind you I still long to try 71 Grange (hint, hint I only need a sip) should the opportunity ever arise!!!!
After two visits to Adelaide’s Celsius Restaurant and Bar we decided to give them a preliminary review with a no–holds–barred review after the standard three–month wait period. No one can deny chef owner Ayhan Erkoc’s passion or commitment to his craft and as first–time restaurateurs with his partner brother Kasim there have been plenty of teething problems that are slowly straightening out click here to read our review.
Good news for the Barossa a new restaurant with a funky name, fermentasia, opening before Christmas. Tuoi Dickson (partner to Grant Dickson, Rockford Wines) is opening in Tanunda and will also be selling her own pastes and Asian vegetables from their nearby garden. Fusion Asian with a strong emphasis on matching food to wine and good take–away, the restaurant will be an exciting addition to the Barossa especially welcome for guests staying in the area and wanting to eat–in! We’ll keep you posted!
The best news for the Barossa this month was of course that McDonalds failed to get planning permission. As someone who has always been pithy and outspoken this type of community action, and the type of action Australia wide about water and it’s future gives me hope that more Australians might be less apathetic. And, speaking of apathetic the South Australian council elections are November 13 so please get out there and make your voices heard! Francis Wong, potentially Adelaide’s next lord mayor has agreed to an interview. We are most interested to know what he plans for the Adelaide Central Markets that have been raped by the Adelaide City Council who in our humble opinion have pretty much wasted the money the stall holders give them to spend on and market the markets.
in praise of “real” Hollandaise sauce
Lastly, the next person who serves me a tasteless sort of mayonnaise muck as the queen of sauces, Hollandaise sauce, is going to see me march into their kitchen and give them a free, but extremely grumpy lesson! Losers, get a recipe that works by clicking here! I do sometimes wondered if my body and brain has been taken over the the formidable Joan Campbell, food editor of Vogue Entertainment for so many years during its hey day. Like me she had lost all patience with chefs (and hospitality professionals) who couldn't get it right and never hesitated to give it to us all!
Keep the faith eat great food, drink great wine,
buy local, grow fab food at home and invite your friends to share your bounty as often as possible!
Ann Oliver — food editor and publisher Galaxy Guides
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what’s hot, who’s hot……sunday brunch at windy point café!
Great view, free wireless internet, Moroccan eggs rock!
Windy Point Café, Belair Road, Belair, South Australia, telephone+61 8 8278 8255 for reservations but reservations are not essential for brunch and lunch on Sundays!
from left to right top to bottom — Moroccan eggs, fresh fruit, apple and passionfruit jelly, kids, we love them especially when they are so cute and so well behaved, yes it is my lap top (and did I get any work done? No, the view took over! Coffee was extra good and the bread was fab! AO
COOKS’ CLUB program for the first six months of 2011 will got out to teacher’s pets mid November, cooks’ clubs subscribers end of November and open to the general public December 5. Gift vouchers will be available from our web site.
It has been a delight to know that so many people are interested in serious cooking and up for tete that eventually turned into Köpf und Schwanz. If you might be wondering why all these complex classes there are a couple of books coming in 2011.
Our friends Jim Smith and Kaaren Palmer have agreed to do another Champagne class and whilst I think we fluked some of the best food and Champagne matches for a trial class there will be some new dishes for the next class.
to subscribe to the COOKS’ CLUB
click here
| the start of the most wonderful sultz tongue and head, total cost for entree for 12 pax $10 AUD and one needs to wonder at a time when restaurants are bleeding trying to make a profit why don’t we see more of these fabulous dishes on restaurant menus?? |
The big melbourne news is …
The Millswyn will open on November 8 in the former Lynch’s, a Melbourne institution for many years. A complete revamp this is an exciting new addition to Melbourne dining with a serious focus on food and wine with two sommeliers Ben Edwards and Dan Sims. Looks like classic French is back (thanks goodness) and head chef Nathan Johnson will be doing just that. We’ll keep you posted! where’s the plan?
the future of tourism in South Australian and Australia
There is a lot of pleasure to be had from showing visitors the best things about South Australia and given that we have some of the most stupendous coastline and pristine beaches it has been a matter of deep concern that beach side councils (and others in wine regions) in the greedy rush for rents and idiotic standard requirements have forced many of our truly unique beach side restaurants into oblivion and been so obnoxious prospective young restaurateurs give up in despair. A good example is young Sarah Turner and Grant Sanderson who have been arguing with the Light Regional Council and since they started negotiations some 18 months ago have spent in excess of $30,000 in architects and legal fees. This of course has all happened while they have been working like dogs to fund it and save for their restaurant. The pressure is of course enormous. The point is we need talented young people to start businesses, to have the courage to step out on their own, but it looks like councils deliberately dismiss the great Australian tradition of ’having a go’ by making it impossible for anyone with limited funds to do so. We should remember that some of the world’s most famous rich list started with nothing but a good idea.
Clearly very few councils understand the limited returns of good eateries if they are stupid enough to think that can pay exorbitant rents and stay in business. Add to that it is infuriating that they fail to see the wider community benefits of tourism. We talk and entertain a lot of national and international guests who are totally mystified by the lack of good dining along our beaches and in many of our wine regions, particularly the Barossa and Clare Valley.
Councils should consider the needs of tourists and the on–going benefits of tourism to the wider community in terms of employment and money spent in the community. It is after all the role of councils to make wise decisions and improvements for their constituents. In the main good restaurants are run by passionate people who work hours that any other industry would find obscene.
Do we care if the view is stupendous, the food fabulous and the wine list regionally representative if they only have one toilet? Of course not! Add to that the requirements in kitchens are completely crazy. Mistress Augustine’s did not have a grease trap and in 12 years we only twice had a blocked sink. It almost seems deliberate, intended that only people with sufficient disposable cash to set up a kitchen as defined by council building permissions will be a developer. Too bad that most of these people can’t cook and have no idea about tourism! In 99% of instances most developers who have ventured into restaurants will admit they rarely achieve the rents they need to get a fair return on their capital. Running a restaurant is a tough business made increasingly tougher with higher and higher power and water bills and food and labour costs.
We need to encourage not discourage the next generation and frankly this attitude is completely un–Australian!
So where are Sarah and Grant now; they own the land they have the plan (which has cost a bloody fortune) but instead of pushing forward they are so beaten down by bureaucracy they are going to Germany for Christmas to investigate Sarah’s Barossa heritage, drink a lot of beer and think about whether or not they have the energy to keep on going with their dream!
for bloody shame when will councils take up the Australian tradition of fair go mate?????
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 the beautiful Barossa in full emerald winter mode!
to read more up–to–the minute
dining, drinking and cooking news and see forthcoming diary dates come back to Galaxy Guides every week. Content always updated by end of Friday (restaurant end of day) with direct links from the front of the site www.galaxyguides.com to news, new recipes and events or click here
The Wheatsheaf International
39 George Street, Thebarton, South Australia 5031
www.wheatsheafhotel.com.au — t +61 8 8443 4546
open Monday to Friday 11am till midnight, Saturday and Sunday noon till midnight
This little pub is just what a pub is meant to be and there is more than a little emphasis on great wines, fabulous single malts and much, much more. Quirky yes, but we love this rumble tumble little pub for its lack of pretension and fantastic inexpensive wines. Where else can you go for a bottle of 02 Roederer Cristal for just $310. Wine and spirits are serious business for owners Emily Trott (yes the daughter of the late Greg Trott), Jade Farrell and Liz O’Dea. peat freaks can enjoy at least a choice of ten with a price range from $10 to $50 for Lagavulin. Fizz aficionados can also enjoy a rare diversity of choice and outstanding value for money price range. Add to that Cristal a NV Gosset Grand Reserve $110. Dozens of beers to choose from and an ever changing wine list with a depth of interest we wish more restaurants had. Like for instance 03 Ashton Hills Shiraz $40, 07 John Duval Plexus $55 or an 04 Mount Mary Quintet for $160. Best of all even the least expensive wines on their list starting at just under $30 are great wines and represent exceptional value for money.
if you are fussy about glassware especially for Champagne take your own glasses! They do have a few good glasses and we are sure that Jean Claude Rouzard (principal of the house of Roederer) would have a heart attack to see Cristal served in Gosset glasses — common Red and White these girls are doing more than most to encourage the drinking of one of the world’s finest drops how about a few Roederer Cristal glasses???
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who’s hot!
october 20, 2010
best
curry puff in Adelaide
 Adelaide Central Markets, Nana’s Bun Shop Friday mornings just after 9.00 am the curry puffs come straight from the oven. The pastry is exquisite and amazingly they make it themselves and we are applying pressure for a lesson. We also love their Ikan Billis buns with their spicy, chewy fishy filling.
spring racing carnival
What other country is so obsessed with a horse race, in fact a bundle of races? The spring racing carnival might be in melbourne but it is enjoyed and celebrated right throughout Australia with equal enthusiasm. Perhaps the fact that a horse race, The Melbourne Cup, can bring the nation to a stand still says something about how we Australians like to enjoy life.
Marian Clarkin our Victorian contributor is a big fan of the racing carnival and gave us the complete run down after 2009 season, so if you would like to know just what the Spring Racing Carnival is all about click here
pastry chef
Windy Point Restaurant Adelaide
click here to go to the ad
this week’s recipes
Christmas pudding
It you’re not thinking about Christmas pudding you ought to be. Miraculously our silver thruppences and shillings have been found and to our added a delight our last remaining pudding doll. Believe it or not the cat (now dead, but not for that reason although I did consider for a couple of seconds what Blanche might taste like) ate the others.
click here to go to our fabulous tried and true recipe
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