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newsletter six November 2008
Welcome
to our November newsletter. Thanks to everyone who is emailing us with ideas for reviews and commenting about existing reviews. Sorry guys but no, you can’t write reviews. We are glad that South Australians agreed with our review of Aquacaf as being a bit of a find and we have another beach side find for december month Spice Bar at Port Noarlunga. We’ve also been back to Urban Bistro and Cos and after a run of restaurants too awful to review we were pleasantly surprised at the quality of product both are delivering.
The start of the Australian Rocklobster season almost always coincides with the end of the Australian oyster season and we seriously question a great restaurant that continues to serve oysters when they are spawning. So many Australian restaurants do not put the great Australian Rocklobster on their menus fearful that the high price tag will mean they do not sell. Those courageous souls willing to always showcase the best Australian seasonal produce find no such problem and in fact will say anything with rocklobster just walks out of the door. We will replace oysters with lobster early in December and whilst it will be in the South Australian section we are listing a few of our interstate favourites.
We apologise that Athens, Singapore and Venice have not been loaded on the site. At this time of the year we all hit a wall with work that pays the bills and have had to sensibly revise our launch dates for those cities and Kangaroo Island until the end of January 2009. We are off to the island at the end of the year to take a look at eating and cellar doors.
I am always appalled when someone says they don’t know what to buy me for a gift. Book Voucher twit! Books to give a food and wine obsessed person for Christmas and before anyone gets on our case, we haven’t forgotten My Big Fat Duck or Thomas Keller’s Under Pressure we just haven’t had time to read them - go to the start


share we buy food grade products for molecular gastronomy from
ACE CHEMICAL CO
119a Mooringe Avenue Camden Park South Australia 5038
Telephone (08) 8376 0844 – Fax (08) 8295 8563
email acechem@senet.com.au – web site www.acechem.com.au
We buy Calcium Chloride, Alginate, Xanthan, Methyl Cellulose, Gum Guar and Calcium Lactate at greatly reduced prices in comparison to products sold from gourmet suppliers from Ace Chemicals. We are looking for Iota Carrageen, Ultra Tex3 and Pure–Cote B790; anyone who can help please email us.

Last month’s newsletterclick here
Our stand– story last month

Marian Clarkin interviews Ferran Adrià
for Galaxy Guides in Melbourne to discover a grounded man with a great sense of humour enjoying his fame but circumspect and grounded about himself and elBulli

Q : At what stage did you realise you had tapped into something unique?
A: It was the feedback we started getting from people. We kept evolving without really realising what we were doing and suddenly when we looked back that was when we started to realise what we had achieved.

Q : Given that chefs very often don’t eat their own food from start to finish, how do you assess the value of a dish and at what stage does it go on the elBulli menu? Have you ever eaten the entire menu at elBulli?
A: We have a table permanently set up in the kitchen and I try the entire menu every week. It is most important to understand what the complete dining experience is. It is very important to try the entire menu; this process gives us the opportunity to fine-tune.…

read the full interview

Isabel Adrià, Marian Clarkin
and Ferran Adrià at the Melbourne
book launch for A day at elBulli
click here to read the full review
 

this month’s book review
Grant Achatz and his team at their Chicago restaurant Alinea.
Their first book shows the most unbelievable generosity, absolutely brilliant, the most inspired original food I have ever seen in my 45 years of fascination with food read the full review

Restaurants
We haven’t been out of South Australia for two months but have been back to a revisit a few due for their bi–annual review. These are oldies but goodies, establishments with long–term chef ownership and brother does this make a difference especially in South Australia, where to be frank the choice of great restaurants is currently quite limited. In December we will be publishing our Adelaide list; the same sort of thing we have done for Melbourne and Shanghai. Concise and diverse and just enough for a week or two in those cities. Our ability to remove reviews with changes of chef or ownership means that we are able to keep our site current. You might like to read our reviewing policy

A match made in heaven Paracombe Wines Sauvignon Blanc and Tony Carroll’s
Jolleys Boathouse Restaurant, Adelaide South Australia) Slow roasted pork belly with chilli and peanuts
The service sometimes struggles at Jolleys but we love the food and it is a favourite summer restaurant haunt and gorgeous on a hot summer’s night. We particularly like Friday nights and a table facing the bridge where a large group of young people perform. The light of their flares and the arches of the bridge make it quite mystical.

ann oliver’s
cooks’ club

For the first of the 2009 cooks’ club classes please
click here to go to the information.
for more about Ann Oliver www.annoliver.com

the cooks’ club is sponsored by The Independent Weekly

ALINEA
Grant Achatz with
Nick Kokonas : Mark McClusky : Michael Nagrant : Michael Ruhlman : Jeffrey Steingarten
design by Crucial Detail and Naissance
photography by Lara Kastner
Published by 10 Speed Press, H/B $65

If you buy one book this year (or this lifetime), Alinea should be the choice. Grant Achatz and his business partner Nick Kokonas and their team set a standard at Alinea that must be hard for others to match. Achatz is certainly obsessed with all aspects of food and wine, but their team takes that to the limit with art, purpose made accoutrements and interior design. An exquisite looking ultra–modern restaurant, superbly pared back, angular and elegant this is fine dining and restaurant architecture at its best.

Images copyright © www.alinea-restaurant.com
the superb photography Lara Kastner

Alinea, the book, is so modestly priced for the quality of the publication, and whilst it is superb it is not the design that is the most appealing. One hundred recipes written with the minutest detail and the most incredible generosity Achatz and his team open their recipes to other chefs and the general public to use as their own. True the food of Alinea might be beyond many home–cooks, but we know a number of obsessed home cooks who not only have the required equipment, but take great delight in executing dishes professionals might struggle with.
One of the difficulties with elements of molecular gastronomy has been that flavour has been sacrificed for appearance and curiosity but after having read Alinea with a fairly succinct knowledge of flavour profiles and cooking techniques it seems that taste overrides everything in their cooking. Mark McClusky p15 “Simply put, the great cooking at Alinea isn’t about the technology used to create it, no matter how formidable that technology is. It’s how these ingredients, techniques and equipment are used to intensify flavour. “The overriding aim at Alinea is purity of flavour” says Grant, “we like explosive tastes. We don’t dilute flavours period.” ” There are many things throughout the book that reinforce this belief. There is less sous–vide in the cooking at Alinea and it has to be appreciated that because of this they maintain better flavour profiles. Whilst we use sous–vide in many ways, we have come to believe that excessive sous–vide is often to the detriment of flavour and food temperature. In this book there are hundreds of things to appreciate, but the listing of the post–modern pantry, service ware and ingredients is an act of the most enormous openness and of course challenge to the reader and executor of their recipes. When everything is so painstakingly explained what excuse is left for not achieving a similar standard, there is simply no one left to blame.
Some of the combinations are vaguely 80s but since the rest of the world didn’t live through the 80s in Australia when some chefs first took on ingredients from Asia and used them in peculiar ways, a glance at current menus from the best restaurants of America and France exhibit a degree of flavour profile experimentation hitherto unseen on those menus. The idea of using eucalyptus oil (we have seen it on many menus) sounds repulsive but of course until we’ve tried it for ourselves we reserve judgemental as we doubt that Alinea would serve a dish that didn’t work. We certainly hope to see a version of their Truffle Explosion p20 on a menu somewhere in the coming month of the Italian truffle season in Australia.
This wonderful book is not just for the food obsessed, it is for the art obsessed, the passionate and the imaginative, but most of all it is a celebration of the next generation of chefs and restaurateurs with a determination to be the best at their craft. It also poses the question what next for this brilliant, so young chef and his team?
Unbelievable generosity, absolutely brilliant, the most inspiring original food I have ever seen and we confidently predict that Achatz and Alinea will scoop the world’s best chef and restaurant for 2009.

 

Community
December 1 — 6.00 pm till 7.30 pm
6th Annual Champagne tasting at The Apothecary 1878
In alphabetical order Ashton Hills, Ayala, Billecart–Salmon, Bollinger, Bridgewater Mill, Clover Hill, Croser, Domaine Pichot, Dominique Portet, Gosset, Guerrieri Rizzardi, Hollick, Kreglinger, Louis Roederer, Nautilus Estate, Ninth Island, Padthaway Estate, Pizzini, Pol Roger, Stefano Lubiana, Taltarni, Taittinger, Ulithorne and Vallformosa The tiny price of $58 AUD makes their annual tasting very well attended. download the booking form by clicking here

December 8, 7.00 pm
The second of Chloe’s Restaurant Chloe’s Club dinners, Monday December 8, 7.00 pm $140 AUD per person food and especially matched wines from their amazing cellar
click here to down load the menu and wines and booking form

We are happy to list special dinners in our newsletter, but reserve the right to refuse unsuitable events. AO

Toying with opening a business in Shanghai or Beijing
If you are looking to establish a business in the food and wine industry in Shanghai or Beijing you need to connect to established businesses, with Chinese language and a relationship with people on the ground, people with a long–term on the ground experience, a massive contact base and a respected position. We know and trust these people to deliver their promise and all have essential market knowledge and between them cover all aspects.

Campbell Thompson, The Wine Republic
David Laris, Laris Creates
Simon Tan, The Wine Centre
Walter Zahner, walternative



Marco Martinelli, alias Adelaide’s Mushroom Man has had some very good Italian late Autumn white truffles and we are looking forward to the first of winter truffles at the beginning of December. South Australians wanting to pre–order a truffle for your Christmas Turkey click here. restaurant wholesale enquiries call 0400 189 303 (Australia)

We support our suppliers for their integrity. We need them to care as much as we do, it makes the food we cook better. When you buy your ham this Christmas support your local producers and, where ever you are buy local

 
books for Christmas
click on the cover to go to the review

 
we all love Movida
and are looking forward to a new book in 2009
best books about preserving

for hundreds more food related book reviews

click here



 

revisited this month South Australia Urban Bistro easy parking, close to city and a pleasant surprise.

 
 
 

you’ll have much more fun if you go out with us
shanghaibeijing


January 2009 will see the start of food and recipes. There has been a lot of pressure for food and recipes and of course we are always working on new recipes or seen something that we want to play with, a new technique, something different, but most of all our recipes have always celebrated the season and will continue to do so. As much as we have a passion for complication If you would like to take a look at food on www.annoliver.com please click here

 

Thermomix
We’re still playing with the hottest newish piece of kitchen equipment — the Thermomix. The turbo function and the fact that you can run it for more than a minute without burning out the motor makes the addition of food grade compounds for molecular gastronomy a breeze. Unable to stand the putrid rancidity of commercial tahina, we’ve always made our own and the distance between golden brown and black sesame seeds has often been a frustration. Add to that the operation has punished cruelly (and often killed) our blenders. The thermomix will roast and stir providing perfect colour with very little attention and if we are not vaccing sesame seeds to use later the tahina can be made in the Thermomix without using another piece of equipment. We love that!
Downsides? Well of course there are always downsides to every piece of kitchen equipment. Downside no whisk which rather puts paid to the boast that no other appliance is required, but we are yet to find one that does. We’re not quite sure why, when they have engineered such a superbly versatile piece of equipment that they haven’t solved that engineering feat. It might be cheeky, but we’ve got an idea! The other improvement would be to be able to use the machine without the lid. Real chemistry flavours of browning are not achieved. None the less these are small criticisms and thus far we are extremely satisfied. We do our first Thermomix Class on February!


Cooks Club
2009 classes are limited to 15 pax

Sunday January 18, 2.30 pm till 5.30 pm
$75 per person gst inclusive
demonstration and tastings only
ice creams and sorbets
new recipes. some old but improved techniques, some new techniques, the class explores inverted sugar, techniques and storage and some plated desserts — booking form

Sunday February 22, 2.30 pm till 5.30 pm
$75 per person gst inclusive
demonstration and tasting only
Thermomix
this class will explore the many functions of the Thermomix; class will include some molecular elements but basically explore the conventional functionality of the machine including chocolate — booking form

Apprentice class discount
$50 per person gst inclusive

 
 

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