return to the October 08 newsletter
Franschhoek is a tiny community
with approximately 4000 permanent inhabitants and they have
8 of South Africa’s
best restaurants. There in lies what we need to be totally
realistic about. No true culinary traveller wants to eat at
the same restaurant for six nights!
As long standing culinary travellers we know the need for research
and this surprisingly has become harder with the Internet.
It would be fascinating research to get a sample of at least
300 visitors to Franschhoek and take a close look at their
Internet search history and the food and wine web sites and
on–line newsletters they subscribe to. It doesn’t take long for an intelligent culinary traveller to work out that about 90% of on–line food and wine recommendations and restaurant reviews are in fact paid advertorial. We bet they own a hard print copy of the Michelin Guide, if they are planning on going to the states or from the states they will definitely own a hard copy of Zagat’s. They will undoubtedly subscribe to the New Yorker, Food Art, Wine, Wine Spectator, SAVEUR, Spain Gourmetour and every other decent food and wine site in the world. Even if they buy Australian food and wine magazines they are so eastern states centric, for the good reason of population and diversity and excellence of experience there is very little to encourage them to visit South Australia.
Karyn Kent, General Manager Trade & International Marketing, South Australian Tourism Commission, delivered a confident, polished and clearly often presented performance of the company statement that was totally depressing. What Kent was talking about were those unfortunate tourists who eat food cooked by locals for tourists. These unlucky tourists are the inexperienced travelers with little or no food and wine knowledge with way lower expectations of the food and wine experience than a real ’culinary traveller’. Their lack of confidence generally means that several cuts are taken from their spend by all levels of tour management and it can generally be said that they pay dearly for what is basically a fairly ordinary experience. It is not just tour operators that factor in a cost, but restaurants and hotels honouring a fixed price for a two–year period undoubtedly protect their margins by doing exactly the same. Menus without prices are a despicable part of the global travel industry and sadly they will continue to exist in the mass group market. But, this sector is not what the fundamentals of the World Food Exchange were about.
Surprisingly, given that we might have thought high profile
international presenters would have stolen the show with what
they could bring to the table, it was the highly respected
Alla Wolf–Tasker and the newly arrived (in the scheme
of things) Jim Carreker who were the best presenters. Between
them they presented their unique and individual Australian
experiences that were utterly relevant to the attendees who
could directly relate to their personal experiences. Both exemplify
long–term
commitment to excellence and unswerving celebration of the
good things of their communities, whether it is food wine,
heritage or community. Apart from a tiny group of outstanding
South Australian success stories in the room, many people attending
may not have fully understood the perfection of both of these
operations. What they may have most not understood is that
both of these operations are world class; they could exist
as equally well in France, Italy or America and attract exactly
the same high spending clientele.
We have to aim higher and operators need help, but sadly the
economic reality of surviving in business often means that
it is the mediocre middle road that makes the best profit.
Councils and regional development boards have to be vigilant
with planning, heritage preservation and sustainability. So
often the very reason that people are attracted to an area
is responsible for that region’s destruction.
How does a body employed to assist all aspects of South Australian
tourism categorise the experiences without appearing to play
favourites rate? There is a brilliant example of an idea we
could make our own. The Spanish government supports a magazine
called SPAIN GOURMETOUR. A stylish publication they have totally
resisted reporting the middle or bottom tier of the tourist
food wine and accommodation experience. They have rigidly stuck
to the top, the best restaurants, the best chefs, the best
destinations and the best products. This magazine is sent quarterly free
of charge to food wine and tourism journalists and high profile
chefs all over the world. It is elitist certainly, but cleverly
they realised that separation was essential to attract the
gastro tourist market and they have had remarkable success
promoting the best of Spanish gastronomy. Their lower end tourism
is equally well covered but not intermixed. If only South Australia
had a similar publication and web site that was exclusively
devoted to the high end.
The World Food Exchange opened the conversation; one, which we hope, will be the start of a greater focus on excellence and competing with the world rather than the local stage. Exactly what affect carbon emissions will have on long distance travel we are yet to work out and predicting the future of travel may be more uncertain than ever if air travel constitutes 3% of the world’s carbon emissions.
It might be a silly bit of daydreaming but imagine if they could crack the science of matter transfer, yes science fiction teleporting and the tyranny of distance could be eliminated. Read the transcripts, especially Jo Sinfield, Alla Wolf–Tasker, Jim Carreker and Professor Barbara Santich there is much to think about.
Also, take a long look at this list of establishments, their uniqueness and their
integrity there is so much to be learned from them and it must be said the packages
and accommodation are class acts!
Ann Oliver, Food Editor Publisher Galaxy Guides
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click on the image to take a look at Solms Delta Wines,
Franschhoek South Africa |
