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newsletter four September 2008

we are just mad about melbourne
A city of absolute style, making the best of the bounty of Australian food and wine without a tinge of cultural cringe their wine lists scour the world to bring the diner the best of everything. Melbourne flaunts its independence from flunky restaurant reviewers and glossy magazines as a new generation of young restaurateurs show just what the word ’hospitality’ really means. It means ’welcome’, come in, have a good time, eat fabulous food, drink wonderful wine, give me your money, and I’ll give you such a good time you’ll be back tomorrow begging for more!And we were! Our favourites are now fully reviewed click here to read the reviews.
We have to say that if we lived in Melbourne Movida Bar De Tapas would be our local and their créme caramel our daily breakfast.
What’s not to love about shopping in Melbourne; the best shoes in Australia, good vintage (but not as good as Adelaide) and great emerging designer studios for art, clothes, jewelery, furniture, ceramics and much, much more. There is a business about the city that is reassurance of the prosperity and vibrancy that is found in everything from the arts and theatre to dining, that is so wonderfully embellished with beach side venues within minutes of the city centre.
We travel a lot as singles and have found special event dinners and regular tables are a great way to have some fun and get closer to the heart of a city. For some really interesting special events in Melbourne check out the web sites of the restaurants reviewed in our new Melbourne section
We are yet to tackle the cheap end of Melbourne mainly because there is just so much exceptional, value for money dining in Melbourne at the middle and top end.

Vue de Monde where food and art are a fabulous and exciting combination

Duane Coates, our senior wine editor has just passed the second stage of his Masters of Wine studies. With saying just, do you know just how difficult just really is? To understand the commitment, emotional and financial, intelligence and palate memory that is required to successfully finish these studies click here
With the dissertation to complete, we look forward to celebrating the completion of Duane’s Masters of Wine studies in December 2009 with one hell of a party. www.coateswines.com

We are very excited that our friend and fellow traveller Tenis Immurs has agreed to be our contributor for San Francisco. Tenis and his partner Norma (a San Franciscan) do business between America and Melbourne and are avid eaters/diners who love to explore the unexpected as much as they do the lavish. Tenis’ contributions will start with our October newsletter.

Our reviews are published every Friday in the conventional print media in Adelaide’s Independent Weekly. New Adelaide reviews this month The Manse Restaurant & Bar and the Botanic Gardens Restaurant.

The October Independent Weekly COOKS’S CLUB class will be Soufflé Savvy Sunday October 5, 2008 and November 2, 2008 Chocolate — a new and intimate venue, classes are limited to 15 pax and a maximum of 5 apprentices.

To see the details for the Alexandrina Cheese Company, Lunch and Conversation Sunday October 19, please click here

Lastly The Adealide Repertory Theatre celebrates it’s 100th birthday with a gala prentation of Inherit The Wind 19th – 27th September

From the top, flowering magnolias signify spring in Melbourne
Shag Vintage two fabulous shops one on Brunswick Street and another on Chapel Street. Chapel Street Bazaar for everything from vintage and 60s lace died in the most amazing colours and then everything from early Australian to retro and deco some; very good pickings.
Venice; the patron Do Mori and Café Florian
The waterways of Venice
Fabulous soufflés in the class Soufflé Savvy
The best ever chocolate cake Cloud Cake, a derivative of La Stupenda all in the Chocolate class
Images in this issue Ann Oliver unless otherwise stated

Next Month — October 2008
The 2008 judging of the extra virgins will be complete and we’ll be letting you know the results and giving you some insider information about our favourite oils.

We’re adding a small Venice guide to our site, little treasures like Do Mori, Venice’s oldest wine bar where stunning anti pasti is there till it runs out and 20 year–old Barolos are available by the glass. Another treasure Il Paradiso Perduto where in Sundays there is a riotous and fabulous food performance with music. Senior wine editor Dr Alexandra Burridge is in France to eat and taste and clearly having lots of fun because she hasn’t filed even a phone pic since she left.

We still plan a critical look at the South Australian inclusions in the Australian Gourmet Traveller annual Australian restaurant awards. Got an opinion please email us we will publish the most interesting and constructive emails. All correspondence must be properly identified and sources will be checked.

We’ll be over in South Australia’s fabulous Kangaroo Island in October and November and compiling a comprehensive guide to the island for our November newsletter. Could be the best way of eating on the island is to cook yourself, but we’ll be telling you exactly where to go to find the great Southern Rocklobster, sea urchin and much, much more!
There may be a lesson given that their island is South Australia’s most loved tourism experience, maybe we don’t need fabulous restaurants after all.

We’ll also be summing up after South Australian Tourism’s World Food Exchange September 21 – 26, various locations — click here for full event details

The Independent Weekly COOKS CLUB
After the genuine exchange of knowledge that was achieved with our last class Sous–Vide, a lot of slow and no foam the decision has been made to keep our cooking classes intimate, maximum 15 pax per class, maximum 5 apprentices per class — please note classes are demonstration only

October COOKS’ CLUBSoufflé Savvy — Sunday October 5, 2008 at 2.30 pm to 5.00 pm
It is easy to make a high soufflé, simple add more egg white, but it’s hard to make a soufflé with a perfect texture that is also full of flavour. This class will explore a range of savoury and dessert soufflés and unravel the simple techniques that make for a perfectly textured soufflé. Dessert soufflés are all gluten free and will include, The Mistress’ Own Chocolate soufflé, Grand Marnier Soufflé and Passion fruit, Mandarin and Lemon using butter and egg based curd as a base. Precise weights for base and egg white brings the soufflé into context, but most importantly it makes it idiot proof…we like that!
Price $75 pp gst inclusive, apprentices $50 pp gst inclusive (max 5 apprentices per class) — download the booking form

November COOKS’ CLUBChocolate — Sunday November 2, 2008 at 2.30 pm
The best of Chocolate including tempering and decorative garnishes and hand made chocolates. We have been lucky enough to borrow a Thermomix (not from Thermomix, but through our friend and colleague Yazan Akeel at L’Hotelier and ecotel) and we have been able to experiment. Thermomix boasted a tempering ability and we did wonder if this machine could do everything it promised. It is no small coincidence that nearly every great restaurant in Australia has purchased one the machine is quite amazing. We are still working out exactly what it will do, but it certainly makes chocolate a breeze; a tempering machine with hundreds of other applications. … we love it! — price $75 pp gst inclusive, apprentices $50 pp gst inclusive (max 5 apprentices per class) — download the booking form

January COOKS’ CLUBIce Creams and Sorbets — date to be decided
Ice creams and sorbets, so when do you stop learning…the answer of course, is never! New recipes using inverted sugar and great new recipes for fruit ice creams and sorbets in readiness for the summer months. We love inverted sugar because we can maintain full fruit flavour and egg based ice creams without the slick and flavour loss of straight glucose. A top of the range–domestic juicer (Breville) and inverted sugar we have made ices that range from Beetroot and horseradish to Mandarin and green ginger gelato with chocolate mandarin sticks. Even our Vanilla Ice Cream which we thought was just about perfect has been slightly improved. — price $75 pp gst inclusive, apprentices $50 pp gst inclusive (max 5 apprentices per class)

In 2009 we will be able to offer corporate hands–on cooking classes for small groups tailored precisely to the clients requirements — Sichuan, classic 18th century Hapsburg Empire, contemporary Australia, Malaysian, French, Italian or Middle Eastern, even Greek or Spanish our travels have given us an intimate knowledge of many cuisines — please either telephone 0403 117 739 or email Ann for a quote.

JOIN the Independent Weekly COOKS’ CLUB by clicking here

 















Books — Huntley’s book is as important as Symon’s One Continuous Picnic and Ripe’s Culinary Cringe, a benchmark book about eating in Australia.

EATING BETWEEN THE LINES
Food & Equality in Australia
Rebecca Huntley
Published by Black Inc., P/B $24.95

This is the most import contemporary book written about food and eating habits in Australia. Huntley is a researcher and whilst the book is utterly erudite it is written with some detachment. Detachment is not to insult the intent of this book, but simply to make obvious that other books that have been very important like Michael Symons One Continuous Picnic and Cherry Ripe’s Culinary Cringe were written with undeniable personal preference and a certain food elitism influencing the words that were written. This is not to say that Huntley does not have a personal interest in food and eating, she does. Her Italian heritage, good food and eating well has clearly been formative in her life, but what Huntley manages to do, that no one writing about Australian food, dining habits, history or the future has previously managed to do is write about the facts without embellishing them with their own personal opinion.
A fascinating read, there is some reason for optimism that perhaps our eating habits are not quite in the decline our sensation seeking press might like to imply. Read the full review


News Australia

Sydney – Melbourne – Canberra
A new Phaidon book A Day at ElBulli. Worthwhile noting Ferran Adrià will be in Australia to do two public talks;
Sydney — Friday October 17, State Theatre 7.00 pm Melbourne — Sunday October 19, Hamer Hall at 4.00pm Tickets $40 talk only, $75 talk and book (saving of $40 RRP book $75) Tickets 1300 136 166 or www.ticketmaster.com.au

Rebecca Huntley book tour
Eating Between the Lines - Food and Equality in Australia
by Rebecca Huntley
Melbourne event
Rebecca Huntley in conversation with George Megalogenis
Date: Thursday 11 September
Time: 6.30pm
Venue: Readings Carlton, 309 Lygon St, Carlton
Bookings: Free event, please book by Ph: 9347 6633

Sydney event
Rebecca Huntley in conversation with food writer Michael Symons
Date: Thursday 18 September
Time: 6.30pm
Venue: Gleebooks, 49 Glebe Point Rd, Glebe
Tickets: $10/$7 conc. gleeclub welcome
Bookings: Through Gleebooks, please ph: 02 9660 2333 or visit the website: www.gleebooks.com.au

Canberra event
Rebecca Huntley in conversation with Clive Hamilton
Date: Thursday 9 October
Time: 5.45pm for 6.00pm
Venue: Paperchain Manuka, 34 Franklin Street, Manuka, ACT
Bookings: Free event. Please by RSVP Wednesday July 30 on Ph: 02 6295 6723 or email: events@paperchainbookstore.com.au

South Australia
Thursday October 16 — Chloe’s Club first of many 25th birthday dinners
Chloe’s Restaurant is the home of one of Australia’s finest restaurant cellars and we also love the cooking of Johnny Triscari and his team. A dinner designed to show just what their point of difference is from their peer Adelaide restaurants just check out the wines.
Join their Chloe’s Club and get advanced notice of their events and reward prices before they are thrown open to the general public and stay tuned for a really fabulous black tie dinner to celebrate their actual opening date
Thursday September 16, 6.30 pm
$120 food and wine click here to view the menu and wines
Download the Booking Form and enquiries singles and small groups welcome to join the long table in the private dining room – that’s where we will be!

Fiesta
September and October are always huge months in South Australia. There is olive oil to judge and this year we have already tasted some absolute beauties that are way in front of the lack luster 2007 vintage. Fiesta the annual McLaren Vale regional month is stacked with interesting events including the featuring of regional dishes — for full details go to the Fiesta web site The purpose of an event like this is to feature the best of the regions produce and wine and it does just that with events like
2008 Regional Dish @ Maxwell Wines
Every Sunday in October from 12 noon
Bookings telephone +61 8 8323 8200
Greek Goat Pie
Rich goat pie with roasted shallots, olives and puff pastry lid served with skordalia and feta mash with charred asparagus spears and oregano vinaigrette. Main course $28.00, wines at cellar door prices and plenty of other options with the Relish Sisters’ new spring menu. Stunning spring vineyard views all ably supervised by Jane Gieck and the winery team.
full Maxwell Wines event details
Additional info on the Fiesta! 2008 Dish program

top right, The Manse Restaurant & Bar european style and dedication to food and wine
is the core of this very good Adelaide restaurant
middle, Chloe’s Restaurant Kangaroo Island marron, potato terrine, jus gras from their current menu
and featured in their first Chloe’s Club dinner menu.
Image courtesy Alan Benson, International +61 412 563182 – National 0412 563 182
bottom, Botanic Gardens Restaurant and their kookaburra doing his show.








Galaxy Guides reviews
Whist we refuse to publish reviews from punters (sorry guys), we are interested in your opinion and enjoy the many emails you send. We love that you share our passions and very often our opinions. We also enjoy (and respect) your trust that so many of you write with a frankness that for us is impossible because of libel laws. It is not out of cowardice that we don't write about ghastly restaurants and it is fair to point out that as followers of Galaxy Guides reviews you are spared the multitudinous unfortunate meals we frequently endure, but never review. It is important to remember with Galaxy Guides reviews, that even though there are sometimes criticisms we review only the best of a city, and despite occasional criticisms an entry in our guide means the establishment comes highly recommended. Spotted a great new restaurant, or, want to remind us about your favourite restaurant or hole in the wall please email us!
Thorn Park Country House Seven Hill, South Australia is now closed to the public. We love the fact that it is now a retreat for the Jesuits and we will never be able to compare it against the wonderful memories we all have of Thorn Park. The end of an era as David Hay and Michael Speers close Thorn Park Country House. Travelling in Europe we hope they find time to file a few market pictures from time to time.

events with Ann Oliver
Sunday October 19, noon
Lunch and Conversation ’What’s happening to genes?’
Alexandrina Cheese Company — Ann Oliver — Fox Creek Wines
$125 per person, food wine and conversation

As third generation dairy farmers the McCaul family and their neighbours involved in agriculture and viticulture are looking to the future of their businesses. What is their future? As chefs we are wondering just how high the price of food will go and just exactly what the future of food is. What ingredients will we be able to buy to cook in ten years time? People with a passion for food and eating are confused and sensible, balanced and truthful information is difficult to find when so much is sensationalized in the press. Given we all have to eat to live we are very badly informed.
Our panel is made up of experts in their individual fields all able to contribute well–researched valid opinions to help the rest of us form an educated view about the future of food. We would especially like to thank the members of the panel for kindly donating their precious time in the interest of a better understanding.

Download the menu and matched wines and the booking form
View the full details including panel biographies

Moderator
Max Anderson
Highly acclaimed editor and now freelance writer, specialising in travel

Panel
Professor Mark Tester

Federation Fellow (Research Professor)
Australian Centre for Plant Functional Genomics and University of Adelaide, Australia
Director Australian Plant Phenomics Facility
Olivia Stratton
Master of Gastronomy Adelaide University, topic Organics — TV Presenter – Food, Wine and Travel
Zannie Flanagan
Project Manager, Strategic Planning & Marketing, Adelaide Showgrounds' Farmers Market
Dan McCaul
Dairy farmer and Cheesemaker Alexandrina Cheese Company

Download the booking form
Photography unless otherwise identified Ann Oliver

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