Hen’s teeth
Dr Alexandra Burridge reviews the
1999 Piper Heidsieck ’Rare’
It’s unlikely you’ll ever see, let alone savour, the 1999 Piper Heidsieck ’Rare’. Only a few thousand to feed the entire planet, and only half a dozen bottles have made the journey to Australia from their birthplace in Reims, France. It is that lack of availability that makes this wine so fascinating and, even if you are not fortunate enough to taste the ’Rare’ the completely decadent pre–global–financial–crisis bottle is a masterpiece which will surely become a collector’s item. As impressive as the wine inside, and in the tradition of the bottle Carl Fabergé designed for the Piper–Heidsieck centenary, over a hundred years ago, a nifty gold clasp on the neck, and a delicate etched golden cage adorning the midriff. It is hedonism gone mad!
The 1999 is only the sixth vintage of this seldom made wine that celebrates a quirk of nature. The first Piper ’Rare’ was the drought affected 1976 vintage and since then it’s only been made in vintages when nature gets the upper hand and the grapes triumph over the odds. The very late harvest of 79, the frosty winter of 85, record sunshine levels in 88, then 90, 98, and on to the 1999. The 1999 vintage comprises only those hardy grapes which remained intact after five months of pounding hailstones. Rare indeed! The wine reflects its history with superb acid backbone, ripe citrusy Chardonnay fruit with the added complexity of Pinot Noir, and in the Piper’s house style finishes with balanced poise and length. The pairing of the wine with Rocklobster and a very subtle light creamy sauce was memorable.
Since we appreciate not everyone will be lucky enough to try this exceptional ’Rare’ vintage, we have a more accessible recommendation. The 2000 Piper–Heidsieck Brut Vintage light but powerful, like a perfectly toned prima ballerina, a hint of lemon, creamy butter, synergising well with a liver parfait. How about that? We agree not your standard food and wine match, but it was like a perfect pas de deux.
As if that wasn’t enough pleasure, a Non Vintage Piper–Heidsieck ’Sauvage’ bowled us over. Just like a sparkling burgundy, no, not the Aussie style sparkling burgundy but a real Cote d’Or Burgundy with sparkles in it. No surprise that a third of this wine is vinified as a serious red wine before the assemblage. It has none of the lolly pop flavours one sees in Rosés, a very adult drink which would be great with roast duck and confit dishes, a blessed food marriage with anything slightly fatty.
And let us not forget the NV Piper Heidsieck, as fresh and lip–smacking as ever, my favourite standby, always a few in the fridge for (lucky) impromptu guests. The entire range is consistent in showcasing the crisp aperitif House style making the 1999 Piper–Heidsieck ’Rare’, though as rare as hen’s teeth, a most fitting tête de cuvée. Santé!
Dr Alexandra Burridge MB, BSc, Grad Dip Business, Grad Dip Oenology
Senior Wine Editor Galaxy Guides
Wine editor Dr Alexandra Burridge was the guest of Piper Heidsieck for a dinner tasting of the 1999 ’rare’ and their complete range held at Mesa Lunga, Adelaide, South Australia.
www.piperheidsieck.com
