HIP AND HAPPENING HELSINKI
Gastronomic Adventures in Helsinki

Marian Clarkin

Reindeer and bear!! Michelin stars! Under the visible skin of superb classical architecture, innovative design the underbelly of the kinky and the kitsch sit very comfortably in the beautiful city of Helsinki. Marian Clarkin peels back the layers to discover the best of wining and dining and shopping experiences in Helsinki.

Helsinki, Finland’s capital city, hosted the 1952 Summer Olympics, and most recently a competition of a different kind: the 52nd Eurovision Song Contest finals on May 12 2007. Last year Finnish group Lordi’s ’Hard Rock Hallelujah’ beat their European rivals to take out honours in Athens. Love it or hate it, the Eurovision Song Contest is watched by approximately 61 million people worldwide. Helsinki rocks, as a hip and happening destination that is a vibrant epicentre representing the crossroads between Scandinavia, to the west, and Russia, to the east. Finland, birthplace of the sauna, Sibelius and Nokia is also home to Finlandia vodka, Father Christmas and functionalist Nordic design and architecture and is a country to explore and enjoy, away from the well–trodden path.

The Finns share more in common with Hungarians and Estonians than the countries they have mutual borders with, as they are descended from the same Finno–Ugric tribes that traversed across Europe from Siberia. (This explains why Finland is a Nordic country rather than a part of Scandinavia.)
Fish, berries and mushrooms are common ingredients found in the Nordic cuisine that Finland shares with its Viking neighbours Sweden and Norway. The pristine waters and fertile wilderness contribute to the high quality of the fresh raw ingredients.

Breakfast
Start the day in Helsinki, the Scandic Hotel Simonkentta, at Simonkatu 9 where they serve a lavish buffet breakfast with oodles of Nordic favourites: gravlax, pickled herrings and salad, along with hot breakfast dishes, cereals, fruit and pastries, all of which is included in the tariff for a room.
Their traditional breakfast is a fish–lover’s delight and especially after a night of bar hopping, full of Omega–3s and caffeine, that the Finns are renowned for drinking in large doses.

Restaurants
In the heart of downtown Helsinki, for a taste of traditional produce served with a modern twist, head to Lasipalatsi Restaurant to enjoy Finnish cuisine. Housed in a functionalist 1930s building with large glass windows (hence the name, lasipalatsi, meaning glass palace), from the large dining room on the first floor you can observe views of Mannerheimintie, a busy street where trams criss–cross the city.
A hearty portion of Traditionally Sautéed Reindeer (EUR 16.80) is served with Lapland potatoes and crushed lingonberries. The meat has a gamey flavour, akin to venison and kangaroo, and great either cooked or raw as Reindeer Carpaccio (EUR 13.50). Worth trying, Vorschmack, which is a traditional dish of minced lamb, beef and herrings, which is seasoned with salt and garlic. Their wine list is eclectic, with diverse offerings from Europe, North and South America, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand. A short distance away is Chez Dominique at Rikhardinkatu 4, which boasts a two Michelin star rating. Run by owner-chef, Hans Välimäki, the restaurant serves innovative and modern French-influenced fare. Foams of lime and apple punctuate the exciting menu that presents sublime ingredients from lobster to foie gras and truffles, while showcasing the best local produce, from the land and the sea. Their wine list is predominantly European and features a comprehensive range of Henschke wines – ideal for any homesick Australian travellers.
For a gastronomic thrill, try the dégustation menu of nine courses (EUR 129) matched to wines ably selected by the manager and resident sommelier (EUR 119). Attentive service and attention to detail in the presentation of the food, from the tiny, coloured ruiskukka flowers, used to decorate the plates, to the Champagne poured over the sorbet at the table, make Chez Dominique a truly memorable dining experience.
It has been said that the best Russian restaurants are in Helsinki. A short distance away from the markets at the water’s edge is Bellevue, at Rahapajankatu 3, the oldest Russian restaurant in Helsinki, which first opened its doors in 1917. The fare and candlelit interior at Bellevue is intricate and impressive, with Russian relics and rich red textiles contrasting with black lacquered wood.
The pickles with honey and sour cream (EUR 6.90) are a very traditional entrée. If dining as a group, choose the blinis, served with a range of accompaniments, including caviar and mushroom salad. For a main with a difference, try the pot roast steak of bear. The less adventurous diner can always opt for the chicken Kiev, a Ukrainian dish that has been adopted by the Russians (and the rest of the world).
If you are fortunate enough to find yourself in Helsinki during the summer, take advantage of the very short nights by checking out the array of bars on foot.
For a bird’s eye view of Helsinki, at dusk head to the Hotel Torni, Kalevankatu 5, and take the lift to the top, then ascend the stairs to the Ateljee Bar, on the fourteenth floor. At this vantage point you can take in 360 degree views of Helsinki from two outdoor balconies and enjoy a glass of wine, a locally-brewed Lapin Kulta beer or a cocktail.
The Hotel Kämp is a five star hotel in the centre of Helsinki, at Pohjoisesplanadi 29. Steeped in history, it allows you to step back in time. Their front bar is a lively place and engaging in discussion as people have done since the nineteenth century, when Finland was on the verge of independence is encouraged.
Mecca Lounge, upstairs at Korkeavuorenkatu 34, is a swank cocktail bar where you can sink into piles of cushions while perusing the creative drinks list. Another venture of entrepreneurial chef, Hans Välimäki Mecca Lounge has a DJ from Wednesdays to Saturdays, so you can chill out mid-week or groove it up under their mirror ball until late on weekends. (Mecca also has a dining room with a reasonably priced east-meets-west menu, open until 10:30pm daily, except Sundays.)

Detox & Retail Therapy
From the centre of Helsinki, take a stroll through the delightful open-air food market, in Market Square, with stalls set up close to the wharf where the ferries depart. Stop by one of the ice cream kiosks that are dotted around Helsinki, to enjoy the local delicacy of liquorice ice cream, or choose from a kaleidoscope of flavours (summer only).
If you feel as if you have overindulged detox and relax at the Helsinki Day Spa, Erottaja 4, while enjoying eastern–influenced remedies, from massage to body treatments for women and men. Relax in a robe and slippers while sipping oriental teas, in the graceful surrounds of an ornately decorated former department store with classical motifs on the high ceilings. If some retail therapy is in order, wander through the Stockmann, at Aleksanterinkatu 52, the largest department store in the Nordic countries, complete with food hall, known as the Delicatessen, which has local and imported produce. Pay a visit to Marimekko’s flagship store, at Pohjoisesplanadi 31, beside Hotel Kämp, to indulge in cool and colourful locally designed and produced homewares and clothing for men, women and children. The home cook can indulge in Finnish table linens, aprons and crockery in distinctive designs. For historic homewares, meander up Mariankattu (Marian Street), where antique shops are conveniently located in one strip. No visit to Helsinki is complete without a sauna, and ‘going nude’ is the traditional dress code.

Finnish Cuisine En Route It is possible to sample Finnish fare before one has even set foot in Finland, aboard Finnair flights, as Finland’s own airline serves national cuisine, from Nordic rye breads and berries to Russian dishes. Aboard the Silja Line ferry between Helsinki and Stockholm, the fine dining restaurant, Bon Vivant, has elegant surrounds looking out across the Baltic, while the ships are sailing through the extended Nordic twilight.
Local specialities, such as white asparagus (grown in the dark), popular in Northern Europe, are complemented by a good wine list. It is a combination that makes travelling by sea luxurious. The restaurant is also a wine bar and shop, stocking Penfold’s wines among fine French examples. The Silja Line ferry also has a smörgasbord, featuring a multitude of breads and dishes, including many different kinds of herring and salmon, with delicacies sourced from the Turku, Åland and Stockholm archipelagos. Desserts are numerous and varied, making the buffet a good choice for those who love them.

Websites
Ateljee Bar
Bellevue
Chez Dominique
Eurovision Song Contest
Helsinki Day Spa
Hotel Torni
Hotel Kämp
Lasipalatsi Restaurant
Marimekko
Mecca Lounge
Scandic Hotel Simonkentta
Stockmann

Marian Clarkin travelled to Finland as a guest of Finnair, Scandic Hotel Simonkentta, Silja Line and the Helsinki City Tourist and Convention Bureau. Finnair operates in conjunction with Qantas, British Airways and Cathay Pacific from Australia, and is a member of Oneworld airline alliance, operating from ten Asian gateways.

FinnairHelsinki & CityTourist & Convention Bureau Silja Line