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food history 1
Very few of these books are recent publications, however, they are books we return to time and time again for the sheer enjoyment of their perfect research, beautifully written text and subject matter that remains fascinating.
to read more food history reviews [1][2][3]
to see what we have been reading in the last two months click here
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DELIZIA!
The epic history of the Italians and their food
John Dickie
Published by Free Press, P/B $35
This book is fabulous. From the first chapter you will want someone to share the enjoyment with, maybe even contemplate reading it out loud to each other. Erudite, beautifully written and absolutely fascinating, but most importantly much of it is new (to me) at least. Beautifully researched and detailed in a way it doesn’t tiresomely mimic everything else previously written about the history of Italian food. For instance the chef Bartolomeo Scappi is given serious consideration and wonderful detail about his book published when he was 70. One can only long for the day when this precious document will be available to all of us via the net. The insight into papal frugality (not!) is utterly fascinating, as is the detailed description of banquet after banquet. It is a long and interesting journey to uncover the development of regional food, the role of war, to the Slow Food revolution and the entry of foreign ingredients in the cooking of Italy today. Dickie has the focus of a recipe writer determined to explain properly regardless of the length of the text and annoyance of the editor. There are some marvellous descriptions of dishes with enough description that it is possible to be optimistic about their translation into modernity.
It is impossible not to think about the books and libraries that Dickie has had intimate access to, the fragile pages he must have reverently touched with tentative white gloved hands as he pulled together the threads of this absolutely marvellous story. The best book of 2007!
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FOOD a history
Filipe Fernández-Armesto
Published by PAN MACMILLAN P/B $25
FOOD a history is a fascinating and erudite read, stuffed with wonderful anecdotes and observations. Chapter 1. The Invention of Cooking is just the start and to convey the sense of the journey, Chapter 8. Feeding the Giants, Food and Industrialization in the Nineteenth and Twentieth Centuries is the final chapter. Tagged, highlighted and torn my hardback copy is treasured and this quote a favourite is the only common writing of the book but so apt! What have we done to food?
“Food, glorious food,
Canned, packaged and frozen,
Food, glorious food,
Which ones have you chosen?
Soups, powdered in plastic bags,
Steaks polished and wooden,
Fish cutlets like Artic crags,
Air–tight pudden?
Food, glorious food,
Pre-cooked and pre-grated,
Food, glorious food,
De–bloody hydrated…………”
J. B. Boothroyd, Olympia Now |
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Medieval Cuisine of the Islamic World
A concise history with 174 recipes
Lilia Zaouali, translated by M. B. De Bevoise, foreword by Charles Perry
Published by the University of California Press, H/B $44.95
Medieval Cuisine of the Islamic world is probably one of the most important food history books since Maguelonne Toussaint–Samat’s History of Food or Felipe Fernandez–Armesto’s food and whilst the text is utterly fascinating the recipes open a world of new flavours and textures waiting to be explored. Particularly interesting is the antiquity of the written recipe in the Arab world, which in many ways went to explain their modern obsession with food and cooking. At a time when cookbooks cover every cuisine on the planet, the recipes are exciting in the same way as John Edwards’ The Roman Cookery of Apicius or Dr Barbara Santich’s Original Mediterranean Cuisine were opening out an opportunity to try something a different.
The great difference is perhaps the advances start of the cuisine, and in fact the few modern recipes at the end of this lovely little volume are dull by comparison. The inquisitive cook will be rushing to their nearest Middle Eastern grocer so they can start cooking. An absolutely brilliant little book!
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The Roman Cooking of Apicius
John Edwards
Published by Rider, P/B $25.00
Has become a little harder to find but remains the best reference of it’s kind
An excellent reference point for the cuisine and ingredients of that time is the books boasts and delivers, translated and adapted for the modern kitchen and so it is, giving an insight into ingredients easily grown and obtainable in our similar climate, and if you are an offal lover, one will note so were the ancient Romans. We have tried with great success many recipes from this book and have found the concepts and combinations interesting and delicious. Cooks who wrongly think coriander is the foundation of the Asian kitchen might take note, that coriander was firmly ensconced in Ancient Rome. Salads of lovage, borage and fennel with ginger, honey, olive oil and vinegar are subtle combinations of overlapping flavours.
For those of you who might wonder at the inspiration of our herb salads this book has been the source.
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The Heretic’s Feast
A history of vegetarianism
Colin Spence
Published by University Press of New England P/B $60.95
The Heretic’s Feast is so provoking you are left with a list of another ten books to read. If you, like many chefs, have somewhat unkindly regarded modern day vegetarians as relics of the sixties Spence’s book will leave you with a sense of humility and respect for what is an ancient, if not always respected, dietary regime. That people following these regimes were persecuted by the Catholic church (and other religions) may also come as a surprise. The book gives us a horrific overview of the persecution and deaths that resulted from the Inquisition and has informative text explaining religious dietary laws that seem particularly relevant today.
If you have ever wondered how naturally inquisitive women coped with not being able to verbalise their opinions publicly it is fascinating to read about vegetarian sects that encouraged (and to some extent exploited) these intellectually frustrated individuals. For chefs somewhat fed up with vegetarians that eat fish they may realise a little more tolerance is required. The originators of this diet were followers of Pythagoras and the diet became known as Pythagorean. Perhaps most interestingly the Pythagoreans seem to have gauged the value of Omega–3 deducing that some fish was necessary for the development of intellect and general health.
A provocative and good read for vegetarians and carnivores alike!
May only be availabe second hand.
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