FISH
North Terrace, Penneshaw
Kangaroo Island, South Australia
T +61 8 8553 7406
OPEN December till March
FOOD Everyone can certainly afford to have a great Australian beach holiday meal at Sue
Pearson’s fish and chippery Fish on the esplanade at Penneshaw. Sue Pearson is something of a legend on the island, an interloper from elsewhere who has stayed long enough to make it her home and win the local hearts. To say that she works hard during the season would be something of an understatement and whilst she only opens to the public from 4.00 pm until 8.00 pm daily during the summer season, amazingly Pearson who has a good reputation as a chef still runs her parallel catering company 2 Birds and a Squid.
Pearson has figured out how to run a beach side eating establishment and not go broke by wisely shutting during the winter months and going somewhere else. The island is feted for several species; King George whiting, garfish, marron (a type of indigenous fresh water crayfish), Rocklobster, scallops and oysters in season. Pearson serves them all when they are available, but Rocklobster, which is now in season, must be ordered in advance. This is simple good fish and chips. Fish comes battered or crumbed, by themselves or with chips (combo). Local oysters are available natural and Kilpatrick during the oyster season. Not exactly cheap, at first the combo portions might seem on the small side, but the offering is good especially the fish and there is ample to still be able to feed some to the greedy gulls. To accommodate an increasing number of Indian tourists she has added and Indian fish curry dish and also serves salt and pepper with aioli are the best offering. A tiny shop, Fish does have a couple of tables at the front, but more popular is the ample seating right across the road with one of South Australia’s premier beach front views all completely free of charge. At Fish, be prepared to queue and try to avoid the arrival and departure times of the Cape Jervis to Penneshaw ferry when they are absolutely at their busiest.
Unlicensed — BYO across the road no one seems to mind.
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Kangaroo Island
stage one Penneshaw and American River
Given the abundance of exquisite ocean and bush landscapes, pristine waters and celestial fresh seafood Kangaroo Island has remarkably few eating establishments at the Southern end of the island in and around Penneshaw and American River. In fact there is very little evidence in the Island’s eating establishments of abundant regional produce or even really good simple cooking. Australia has struggled with the concept of closing for winter like European seaside holiday resorts.
We particularly love the Southern end of the island because the area remains an unspoiled South Australian paradise. Accommodation at this end of the island ranges from wonderfully Australian, utterly simple, beach frontage shacks where the interior design is defined by the cast off furniture most probably found in council hard trash collections to ultra luxurious. Each has their own charm, but what they all have regardless of price is a view to die for. One of the aspects we love most about this part of the island is the fact that its joys are not proportionate to the amount of cash you have to spend. Five crabs turned into a sublime risotto two hours after they were caught, or sashimi leather jackets, or pasta with fresh sea urchin roe is probably a more memorable meal than the most expensive restaurant could deliver anywhere in the world.
As further proof of the Utopian nature of this paradise a dad and his two small kids had a decent bucket of good–sized fish, fishing from the boat ramp pontoon whilst we in a boat had two fish that had only just scraped through in terms of size. Kids are willingly outside and even the tiniest has an excited conversation about the fish they caught. Everyone can share a heart rendingly stunning beach view, watch with awe as a two metre stingray dances through the bay heading for the sanctuary lagoon, chuck a line in and fall back into the slow peace that is Kangaroo Island. At American River an enormous ancient mulberry tree is community property and delivers annually a crop of juice staining mulberries that are simply to die for and harvested by locals and tourists with equal gratitude. It’s relatively easy to catch a fish, a few crabs, jig a squid, tell lies about the one the got away. You can even collect samphire at the edges of the water at low tide. This is really an un-spoiled paradise.
We recommend finding accommodation with cooking facilities. Go fishing do a bit of
farm gate shopping and think of all the great dishes you can cook with one pot. The island produces some marvellous wines and most have cellar doors. Lobster and the very famous King geroge whiting can be purchased from
Fergusons Australia and marron are available during summer from most of the marron farms. For full information about local produce use the farm gate shopping link.
After all a stay at the island is meant to be restorative not working 24/7 to put a meal on the table. There is a pretty good IGA in Pennshaw were most basic (and a few exotic) grocery items can be found; fresh milk etc. Bringing your own fruit and veg from the mainland still remains a good option. There is a local store at American River where ice, gas and basic requirements can be found.
The relatively new luxury accommodation
Ocean Lodge is on our list to visit during winter to review their accommodation and food. Since we have heard relatively nothing about the establishment we are not in a position to comment, but do note that usually bad comments reach us before good. This site has comprehensive accommodation on the island
click here
We are also returning to check out in detail more of the regions’ accommodation so that we can better categorise the type of experience our readers seem to enjoy. One of the experiences we are looking forward to is a revamped lobster boat with a galley we hear, is to die for! So stay tuned as the dinner may be offered as a Galaxy Guides event with food editor Ann Oliver preparing and serving the food that will be matched with local wines.
warning when getting to Cape Jervis to the ferry road signage is appalling and in fact we didn’t think we saw mention of Kangaroo Island until we came to the turn off to Victor Harbor. Don’t lose faith and think you have lost your way, stay on the Main South Road and eventually the sign comes up! At least heading this way the signage is not hidden in trees or on the corner you need to turn on like the Adelaide Hills. If we locals get lost how the hell do tourists figure it out????
23 January, 2010 we are returning to Kangaroo Island in March 2011
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