Barossan beauties!
There is hardly a more bounteous time to visit a wine region than autumn and the Barossa Valley especially so because it is really the only South Australian wine region that remains deeply steeped in its migrant German cultural heritage. It is a totally bizarre outcome that for a region so rich in produce and wine and culinary history that with the exception of the highly acclaimed Rockford Wines stonewall table, a members and friends reward not available to all, the region does not boast a single restaurant that might gain at least one Michelin star rating on international standards. Even Murdock’s, which we had hoped might fill a gap between the Roaring 40s’ pizza bar and the high end at Appellation at The Louise, after a promising start closed last year under pressure from the world economic situation and falling wine exports. We love the honesty of the traditional aufschnitt at Lehmann’s Wines, where they present a simple regional platter (in a gorgeous gallery environment) similar to what one finds in wine regions in Germany and Austria. About $20 with a glass of their fabulous wine it represents incredible value for money but it is not, and nor do they intend it to be, fine dining.
top to bottom, left to right — the superbly maintained grounds of the family owned Yalumba Wines ̫ open ferments at Henschke Wines – heritage pears from Krondorf garden drying in the sun – no gym for the Rockford boys during vintage as they take turn forking tons and tons of grapes
Anyone who attends the twice–weekly Rockford Stonewall Table will immediately understand not just the privilege but also the uniqueness of the experience. Robert O’Callaghan clearly does not count the cost of running the Krondorf Garden and Stonewall Table, because if he did it would never exist. Gardeners and sublime chefs Ali Cribb and Michael Voumard are the key to the bounty of the garden and the excellence of the food on their table. Their cooking is the sum of their travel and work experience, but the governing point of their menu is always garden availability. Here in lies the genius of their menus. At a down time of the year, in between seasons there might be as little as potatoes and onions and a few herbs and yet with the foods they have dried and properly stored in their glut seasons (like now) this remarkable pair still manage to present a menu that is as intriguing as it is stunning for the skill and knowledge it shows. To my knowledge the Stonewall table is utterly unique in Australia. Sure there are country restaurants with amazing vegetable gardens, but what they lack is the total experience of brilliantly cooked food, world–class service and accoutrements and of course stunning wine with the ability to delve deeply into their museum wines. A totally unique and world–class Australian experience!
The other important fact to remember is that Voumard, Cribb and O’Callaghan are also responsible for preserving almost extinct plant and tree species and whilst their garden is hardly truly representative of what an original Hüffendörf farm might have grown it is possible to understand why coriander, ginger, galangal, chillies and multitudinous Asian ingredients are also grown there. It is also more than possible to understand their sense of loss when and ancient and original Splendor plum, a variety considered too fragile for today’s market place, splits in half under the burden of its enormous crop and the affect of long–term drought and looks in danger of dying.
The recent Tanunda Annual Show proved again just how much interest there is in Barossan food and growing it, not just from locals but people from much further afield. Record attendances and sell out at the Magpie and Stump Café show a renewed interest in real regional food and in particular growing your own food. A point worth noting last year their pie generously sponsored by Carême Pastry (also a local business) was delicious, but came with a mash better than any I have eaten in a restaurant since I last ran one myself. Re–warmed mash sucks and the difference between just made and reheated is obvious! Not surprisingly, given the regions German heritage dill pickles and pickled onions are fiercely contested, but the diversity of produce is a reassuring indication that those old traditions are embedded in the Barossa.
Two of the last remaining wood–fired smoke houses exist in the Barossa Valley one in Nuriootpa at Linke’s Butchers and the other at Schultz Butchers in the main street in Tanunda. The smells of good Australian pork smoking are so tantalizing it is impossible not to rush straight into the butchers and buy up big. Their bacon is stunning, we love the traditional Metwurst (especially if we can have it with pickled onions) and recently used their Shultz’ Polish sausage, in lieu of the traditional Andalouse sausage, to make Gumbo and were stunned at delighted at its brilliant quality. Sliced and fried with a fresh egg over the top and a smattering of chilli it’s a fab alternative to bacon.
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The tantalising smell leaking from Shultz Butcher’s smokehouse and a sneak look at the smoking bacon
There are two main cheese makers in the Barossa, Ballycroft Barossan Artisan Cheeses, readily available from the Saturday Barossa Farmers Market and The Barossa Valley Cheese Company who also sell at the market but have a retail outlet in the main street of Angaston. We have an especial fondness for the Barossa Valley Cheese Company because they show a genuine welcome to anyone who walks through their door. A refreshing change after having embarrassingly experienced exactly the opposite a couple of years ago when attempting to show a guest from Shanghai the beauty of regional South Australia we were rudely turned from the door from Salters because they were ’full’. This was despite the fact it was a glorious day and none of their outdoor seating (about 50 pax) had been set which seemed to me to be unbelievable mismanagement as I quickly calculated what they seating might have made in terms of revenue. The Barossa was redeemed in the eyes of my guest by the genuine welcome we received at the Barossa Valley Cheese Company, who incidentally didn’t have a clue who we were! There are many fabulous regional producers who come to the weekly Barossa Farmers Market and if you love to cook when choosing your accommodation you might like to take into account the abundance of great produce and wine and choose to cook yourself for a good portion of your Barossan stay. None of this is to dismiss the fact that there are some great cooks attached to accommodation in the Barossa Valley but you need to choose wisely.
top to bottom, left to right — catchy and unusual ceramics for sale at The Barossa Valley Cheese Company – Hayley Pryzibilla, right Barossa Valley Cheese Company owner and cheese maker Victoria McClurg – the bounty of home gardens at the Angaston Cooperative where a very good pasty can also sometimes be purchased – stylish shopping abounds throughout the region.
There is irresistible antique shopping, second hand books and a climate so kind it’s very hard to improve upon. The Barossa has history, a history that has been carefully preserved with brilliant heritage properties that would truthfully no longer exist were it not for the hundreds of thousand of dollars wine companies have thrown at the properties. Blessed are they who preserve our heritage!
The golden sunset from Mengler’s Hill the best picture vantage point to grasp the extent of the Barossa Valley
Enjoy the diversities of the Barossa from blending your own wine at Penfolds to taking a good bottle, cheese and bread and heading for the lookout on Mengler’s Hill at sunset and seeing what the ’golden Barossan light’ is really all about.
Regional accommodation is well developed at the high end in the valley and
there are many options at that are both super stylish and very elegant. Thankfully,
the ’death by doily’ is starting to disappear. The early settler
cottage architecture of the region has seen some of these lovely buildings
restored and because they offer a pleasant degree of isolation and privacy
they are very popular hideaways.
Wine, well the region is famous for Shiraz but at the cool end of the region
in the Eden Valley some of Australia’s finest Rieslings are made.
Cellar doors are a matter of pride and the product knowledge of the staff that
work in them is quite remarkable. Some of the older players like Yalumba, Henschke’s and Rockford have characterful restored properties that range from palatial at Yalumba with glorious gardens, Henscke and Rockford’s
with their tiny historical cellar doors. The changing face of the Barossan
cellar doors is part of the regions charm.
Whilst there are dozens of old wineries and the region boasts some of
the country’s
oldest vines, a new generation is making some very interesting wine.
Whilst it is not fair to single out just one Tscharke is a very good
example of the finesse that can now be found in Australian wine. It is
also a result of a new generation having done vintages in the old world
and we are certainly enjoying the benefits of their application of this
experience to their Australian wines.
The Barossa is an easy 90–minute drive from the city and there are always good mid–week
rates. We love the Barossa, but then we love all of our wine regions!
Below are a few of our favourite Barossan experiences
for more options www.barossa.com and don’t forget op shops and local craft cooperatives for some very special bounty and take the time to explore the main streets of townships.
Barossa Farmers’ Market, every Saturday www.barossafarmersmarket.com
Careme Pastry www.caremepastry.com
Lehmann Wines www.peterlehmannwines.com
Barossa Valley Cheese Company www.barossacheese.com.au
Schulz Butchers Angaston, 42 Murray Street, Angaston South Australia A 5353 – telephone +61 8 8564 2145
Linke’s Central Meat Store, 27 Murray Street, Nuriootpa South Australia – telephone +61 8 8562 1143
Penfolds blend your own click here
