PIPERS OF PENOLA
58 Riddoch Street
Penola South Australia 5277
Wwww.pipersofpenola.com.au
E pipers@pipersofpenola.com.au
T +61 8 8737 3999
F +61 8 8737 3666
OPEN Lunch Friday to Sunday 12.00 pm, Dinner Wednesday to Saturday 6.00 pm

FOOD It might be a five hour drive from Adelaide to get there, but Pipers of Penola lifts the bar sky high for regional, and perhaps, city dining. In fact bring Simon Bowen and his partner Erika Burg to Adelaide and they may well hit the top. Bowen, of the famous wine family, met his partner in Sonoma country and now in this tiny immaculate restaurant in the heart of the Coonawarra he is strutting his stuff. The restaurant is immaculate, more stylish in than out, lovely flowers, perfect linen and attention to detail right to the Riedel glassware.
This food is simply gorgeous. It looks beautiful, is perfectly cooked and divinely plated, even on some coloured plates. There is work on the plate, but most exciting is the combination of flavours and textures. Silken sauces, crisp just-cooked pastry and fresh seasonal ingredients.
An entrée Pan seared scallops, smoked eel, truffled potato ecrasé, Pernod sauce ($20) was sublime, delicate and balanced like a tight rope-walker walking across the Niagra Falls. A brilliant start, and finished to the last scrape with an equally excellent house baked bread roll. The restaurant that bakes it’s own bread always stands out. Globe artichoke, beetroot and goats’ cheese tart and roasted walnuts ($15), looked tremendous and since there was n taste offered and it vanished in a flash, one can safely assume it was equally good. Pan seared chicken livers on toasted brioche, sauce Lyonnaise, creamed spinach & glazed shallots ($16) has fantastic flavour but the chicken livers had not been graded by size and were unevenly cooked. A minor complaint.
As for mains, all a miniscule $27, Eye fillet of beef, medium rare, brisket Napoleon, Yorkshire pudding, roast bone marrow & beef jus was absolutely fabulous. The Roasted loin of pork, celeriac puree, braised Brussel sprouts, crisp pork croustion, pork was a masterpiece. Roasted saddle of lamb, medium rare, pan seared polenta, spiced ratatouille, white bean puree & lamb jus was plain to look at but perfect.
We tried two desserts, Rhubarb bread and butter pudding, almond praline semifreddo & rum sabayon and Saffron and vanilla poached pear, chocolate terrine and chocolate croquante. The latter was divine with one small exception in that the chocolate terrine had been made either with low salt or some salted butter instead of unsalted. It didn’t stop us cleaning the plate and diners not used to only using sweet butter for desserts may not have noticed.
Pipers has a private room behind the small dining room and if you’re looking for something good for a special birthday or just a great night out, taking everyone to Conawarra wine country, giving Simon Bowen his head when it comes to the menu and staying overnight would be a very cool thing to do.
Pipers of Penola is an excellent restaurant and in our opinion rates very highly within the top 10 restaurants in South Australia. There is ample accommodation within walking distance of Pipers from the local pub to stylish B & B’s and we believe the restaurant is well worth the journey!

WINE At first glance, wines by the glass seem a little short in supply but Pipers is not under the same pressures as city restaurants in this area. Most people are staying within walking distance for the night and locals used to being indulgent have dedicated drivers and make the most of the offerings. There are plenty of excellent Australian choices with ample opportunity to try interesting varietals and make comparisons between Coonawarra and other regions. Wading through an excellent list one gets to the back pages and the opportunity for credit card meltdown with a fabulous selection of back vintage French wines with prices set generously low.

OWNERS — Erika Burg and Simon Bowen
CHEF — Simon Bowen
RESTAURANT MANAGER — Erika Burg